Oysters in Oakland?

Oyster mushrooms are always among the first fungi of the season to appear, and the among the most eagerly-anticipated. They are lovely to see, delicate white fans festooning the wood of a recently-deceased oak or alder, like like the wings of an angel air force helping the tree take flight into the next realm. Flights of fancy aside, they are abundant in the right conditions, and good to eat. They must be treated delicately, though, due to their subtle flavor and texture.


This week I found a terrific large patch of them growing on an old live oak in a canyon in the Oakland Hills, an couldn't resist taking a few home for dinner. My favorite way to eat oysters is in a stir-fry, so I made up a recipe using a few things that are around this time of year. I call it O2P2.

O2P2 (for four people)

Mise en place: A wok, or good big pan.
A cup of not-too-flavorful cooking oil (e.g., canola, safflower).
One large clump of oyster mushrooms, about the size of your head. Separate the individual "bracts", and cut them up if they are large. discard any older, woody-feeling stipes.
Four or more cloves of garlic, peeled.
A piece of fresh ginger, about the size of your thumb, peeled and sliced in rounds.
Some snow (edible pod) peas, about two big handfulls.
Some sweet green peas (frozen is fine), about two big handfulls.
Some fresh sea (diver) scallops, sliced thin (optional).
Some hot peppers (also optional). You can sub sliced red bell pepper for color, if you like.
A measure of oyster sauce, say a good 4 ounce glass-full.

First, get the rice started, whatever kind you prefer. Then boil some water, and blanch the snow peas very briefly. Take them out and run cold water over them, then set them aside. Toss the peas in the hot water and cook them appropriately depending on wether they are fresh or frozen, then set aside as well.

Heat up the oil in the wok to the proper temperature (hot, but not smoking), and toss in the garlic and ginger. If you are using hot peppers, add these too. Stir fry briefly until the garlic just begins to turn golden, then scoop everything out and put aside. if you are really hard-core, you can add the garlic and peppers back in a the end; otherwise you are done with this stuff.

Add the oyster mushrooms to the hot oil and stir fry gently, so as not to destroy them. This shouldn't take more than about two minutes. Toss in the scallops, give them a good "turn in the pan". Then add both kinds of peas. Heat through, and add the oyster sauce. Viola, dinner is ready. Serve with a crispy, chilled white wine. Why "O2P2"? Two kinds of "oysters", and two kinds of peas... If you make it with actual oysters instead of scallops, it's O3P2. The variations are endless...